Land of the Snakeheads and Freshwater Torpedos

Prologue

For the past few years my nephew, Ah Ap been telling me about these 'man eating monsters' called Toman that inhibit the lakes deep in the Malaysian jungle. The stories sounded very 'fishy' indeed. At the time these lakes were within the military restricted areas due to Communist activities. Unless you have good contacts and connections within the military it was almost impossible for the ordinary people to access those areas. Ah Ap being a very resourceful person soon established the necessary contacts and connections within the military. Before long he was invited to join a fishing expedition with the army personnel. One day an e-mail arrived from Malaysia with the all important photographic evidence of this 'man eating monster', a 5kg Toman. I didn't need any more convincing.

The Plan

Early 1999 I decided it was high time I got off the 'rat race' and have a decent holiday. Malaysia seemed like a great destination and it was a great opportunity to visit my family as well. Immediately I contacted Ah Ap and told him about my plan and asked him if he could organise a jungle fishing trip for me to catch some of these monstrous Tomans. He didn't think it would be problem because most of the areas are now open to the public. He was more concerned about the tackles I was going to bring for the trip. I told him the heaviest tackle I had was approximately 12 lb. I could almost 'hear' him laughing over the Internet. He suggested that I should purchase more suitable tackles when I come back to Malaysia. After countless e-mails between Malaysia and Australia we eventually sorted out our preliminary plan.

The dream became reality on the 28th of November 1999 when I and my son, Gary walked through the Australian Custom and boarded a Qantas flight to Singapore. A friend of Gary from Melbourne by the name of Kee joined us a week later in Kuala Lumpur. From K.L we travelled by car back to my home town, Pengkalan Hulu or used to be called Keroh. On our way we went pass a small town Gerik which is the gateway to our fishing destination, Tasek or Lake Temengor.

The Preparation

After spending some great time with my family and friends and enjoying the fabulous local food and tropical fruits, especially the 'durian', it was time to start preparing for the jungle fishing trip. Ah Ap took us to a tackle shop in Sungai Patani or S.P where we bought all our necessary gear. I ended up with an Ugly Stik and a Penn 5500 'egg-beater' with 22 lb line which the others thought were a bit light for the job. I said I like to give the fish a fighting chance and they all laughed!

On our way back to Keroh we stopped at a bait shop and bought some bait fish and frogs. Then Ah Ap bought something really disgusting - chicken intestines. He said they were really good for night fishing. Back in Keroh we ended up with the dirty job of cleaning the chicken intestines. The smell was so bad that Kee almost threw up. The last thing we had to do was to buy some big ice blocks for the icebox to keep the fish fresh. The preparation was a big job but also part of the fun. There was so much stuff that we decided to take two Kembara's (Malaysian made recreational 4WD). Ah Ap was in-charged of the menu and the food for the trip, since he was the budding chef. By the time we finished packing it was past midnight and the thought of having to get up at 4.30am was not at all motivating.

The Trip - Day 1

I was having an exciting dream fighting this giant Toman when suddenly "Cock-a-cock-a-do" I was rudely awoken and brought back to reality by a rooster of all things!. "It was a tough life", I thought. But then I remembered the exciting fishing trip ahead. Mum was a bit worried that we might get hungry so she cooked us a huge breakfast of noodles and 'Ba Chang' (glutinous rice with lots of goodies wrapped in bamboo leaves). After stuffing around we eventually managed to get away at about 6.30am. The drive from Keroh to Gerik was most pleasant and beautiful. The silent jungle waking up to a morning mist and a symphony of birds. The morning sun was cutting its way through the mist and the trees, painting a picture of harmony and tranquillity. The kampongs we passed were still asleep and peaceful, very much part of this picture. I was wondering about the price of progress. Was it worth it?

We arrived in Gerik a bit earlier than we planned. The town was still half asleep. Most of the shops were still not opened. So we rang our guide/boatman to see if he could meet us earlier. He said he was ready and could meet us in approximately 15 minutes. We left Gerik at 8.30am and half an hour later we were at Lake Temengor. The guide then took us off the highway at a place called Banding and through this narrow unsealed lane to a small parking area. From this parking spot we had to unload and carry all our gear down this slippery and steep slope to his boat shed. Suddenly Ah Ap told us to hush because he noticed there were lots of elephant droppings. He said we must not say the word 'elephant' out loud. It was bad luck to do so. We all laughed and thought it was a load of bull….

After loaded all our gear onto the boat we were ready to begin our journey. The guide told us his two younger brothers were coming along to do some fishing as well, in a separate boat. The weather was beautiful as we began our journey. The lake water was crystal clear and still, mirroring the magnificent jungle all around. The boat glided through the still surface effortlessly. All we could hear were the humming of the outboard and its echo from the surrounding mountains. Suddenly the boat slowed down and the guide told us to be quiet because he saw sights of Tomans. He then skilfully steered the boat in among the dead trees. Ah Boy got his tackles ready and put on a life catfish bait. He obviously knew what he was doing. We waited for a few minutes. Then I saw something which I would not have believed if I haven't seen it by my own eyes. The still surface was boiling with activities. It looked like hundreds of small fish breaking surface. Without hesitation Ah Boy cast his life bait on top of the boiling surface. Few seconds later, tight line! The fight was on. But unfortunately it was short lived. The line went slack and upon retrieval we noticed half of the catfish was gone. Casting with Rapala lures did not produce any result, so we continued on our journey. Later Ah Boy explained to me that the small fish surfacing were baby Tomans and normally mother Toman was not too far away.

We arrived at our campsite just before lunchtime. The campsite was on a small peninsula next to an Orang Asli Kampong. (The Asli are the indigenous people of Malaysia). We promptly set up our tents because it was getting hot and we were also keen to go fishing. After having a light lunch of instant noodles the guide suggested that we should go for a swim to relax and cool down before going fishing later in the afternoon when it was cooler. We were a bit reluctant to get into the water full of 'man eating monsters'! But he said he knew of a river not too far from the campsite and assured us that it was quite safe. The journey up the river was out of this world. Beautiful and dense jungle on both sides framing the entrance back in time to the Jurassic era. The water was cool and crystal clear.

Once our boat was moored by the side we were in the water in a splash. The current was very strong. All of us except our champion Kee, were having difficulties maintaining our positions. It was like swimming on a treadmill. But Kee was able to swim against the strong current for almost 50 meters up to the rapids, much to the admiration of our guides. Near the rapids we took the opportunity to fill up our water bottles. After our refreshing swim we were ready for the big Tomans and whatever the lake had to offer. On the way down stream back to the lake we saw Asli children swimming and riding on bamboo rafts. But the most interesting sight was an Asli family 'floating' down the river on a dead tree they chopped down further up stream. We thought that was quite amazing.

According to our local experts the best time to fish for Toman was early afternoon. So we told our guide our intention. He seemed to know exactly where the Tomans were. Before long we spotted a school of Toman siblings breaking surface. Out came our gear and five catfish landed on the baby Tomans. That must have scared the hell out of the mother Toman because none of us got a bite. After a quick conference we decided that only one person was allowed to cast at any one time. On the next sighting it was my turn. So out went the catfish and few seconds later I got strong pull on my line. "I got a Toman!" A moment later, "No, I got half a catfish!". Then it was Ah Ap's turn. A perfect cast and right on target. Almost immediately his line went tight, the rod was showing sign of strain and the drag was starting to 'scream'. The fight was on but did not last for too long. It was a small Toman approximately 4 Kg.

We chased Tomans for while but didn't have much success so we decided to move to a quiet inlet to try our luck on the Sebaraus, appropriately called the freshwater torpedos. For this we used the golden colour Rapala lures. They were six of us on the boat including the guide. Casting six lures randomly on a small boat was a highly dangerous pastime. It was a miracle no one got hooked! I think the fish were smart enough to stay clear of these bunch noisy lunatics. After God knows how many casts there was not even a follow-in. The enthusiasm started to wear and further encouraged by this mysterious pain around the elbow that seemed to get progressively worst with each cast. Kee being the 'champion' persisted. Now it was quiet because the rest of us were exhausted and Kee was the only one casting. Suddenly we hear Kee shouted, "I got …." Before he could finish the sentence the tip of his rod was in the water. He could hardly keep it out of the water and the drag was screaming. Few minutes later he seemed to have the situation under control. Out of the deep a giant Sebarau appeared. Out came the landing net. But before Kee could manoeuvre it into the net it turned and shot off just liked a torpedo. There was nothing Kee could have done, the hooks of the Rapala were straightened! Wow! What a fish!

By the time we got back to camp it was already pitch dark and we were starving. We cooked the noodles and Ah Ap being the resident chef prepared and steamed the Toman. It was a delicious dinner. Nothing beats freshly steamed fish. After dinner Ah Ap suggested that we should go and do some night fishing. Some of us were not overly enthusiastic because we were tired and also the thought of having to handle the fermenting chicken intestines was too much!

The Trip - Day 2

We got up fairly early next morning. It was another beautiful day. During breakfast the night fishing was mentioned briefly. Apparently it was not very successful. They didn't even get one bite. After breakfast we decided to go fishing for Haruans. I was told Haruans also belong to the snake-head family and they reside primarily in shallow water in among the weeds and reeds. Their favourite food is frog. Fishing for Haruans required quite a bit of practice and skill. The idea was to cast a life frog into the reeds and then retrieve it slowly to imitate a frog hopping from reed to reed on top of the water. If you were lucky a Haruan would be there waiting in ambush. Ah Ap who considered himself a champion of Haruan fishing, was only managed to catch one. Whereas for the rest of us we didn't even get a touch. So after couple of hours we gave up and headed for the open water looking for Tomans and Sebaraus.

While we were fishing for Sebaraus in one of the inlets we heard and saw a tiger. That really reminded us that we were in a real jungle! Just before lunch I managed to hook and land my first fish, a pan-size Sebarau. As it was getting rather hot we decided to go back to camp for lunch and have a rest. "What's for lunch?" Out came the instant noodles. Some of us were starting to wonder if we brought any other food besides instant noodles. After lunch we went up the river again for a swim. For the afternoon fishing our guide suggested that we should split into two groups and use two boats. He reckoned with the five of us on one boat it was a bit too clamped and we were making too much noise. So Ah Boy and me went with the guide's brother in the smaller boat. Ah Ap, Kee and Gary went with the guide and his other brother in the bigger boat.

Since it was still early we decided to go looking for Tomans. We came across a quiet bay full of dead trees like tombstones on a cemetery against the afternoon sun. Our guide switched off the outboard and let the boat glide silently between the dead trees. Suddenly in front of us the mirror surface was broken by a frenzy of activities. Ah Boy's catfish was already on its way. Few seconds later his 'industrial' strength outfit was being put under the test. A giant Toman took the bait. It was just a matter of hanging on and hoping the outfit could take the punishment. Minutes later a huge Toman started to emerge from the dark water. Even thought I expected it I was still amazed by its size. It took us a little while to get the fish into the boat since the landing net was in the other boat. Later on we started spinning for Sebaraus. As the sun was slowly sinking below the sparkling lake I got a strike so sudden and strong that it took me by complete surprise. My rod nearly went into the water. Before I could regain control it was all over. Both of the triple hooks on my Rapala were straightened. I didn't even get to see the fish!

With this combination of two separate boats our results improved significantly. At the end of the day between us we had two Toman's up to 6 kg and ten good size Sebaraus. Apparently the other boat found a great spot and had a ball fishing for Sebaraus. They landed ten but lost just as many. All in all it was a most successful and enjoyable day. Back in camp we quickly gutted and cleaned the fish and put them in the icebox. Then it was time for dinner. Out came the instant noodles again! If not for the fish we would most probably die of 'instant noodle overdose'! After dinner we were desperate for something sweet like lollies, cakes, fruits etc. but there was none. No one was interested in night fishing so we all hit the sag.

The Trip - Day 3

We got up early and packed up camp since this was our last day. After another round of instant noodle breakfast we were edging to go fishing. It was pointed out that the 'overseas' visitors were yet to catch their first Toman. We left our campsite at about 10 am on two boats and went separate ways searching for Toman's. Soon we came across a small inlet and it looked promising. There was a big tree fallen into the water. As usual our guide cut the outboard and let the boat glide silently among the dead trees. As we got closer to the fallen tree we noticed there were Tomans rising left, right and centre. We also saw a large school of Sebaraus swimming close to the surface. All the fish seemed to be around the fallen tree. They must have been attracted by the food and insects that came down un-voluntarily with the falling tree. We decided to spin with Rapalas to see if we could catch a few Sebaraus. After a few casts Ah Boy got a hook-up. It looked like a big one. But the excitement was short-lived. The line went slack and Ah Boy had to say good bye to his favourite Rapala.

As the guide was manoeuvring the boat closer to the fallen tree we saw a lot of Tomans surfacing. Instinctively I knew it was the right time for me to try and catch my first Toman. I replaced my Rapala with a life catfish and waited. I didn't have to wait for long. Out of the corner of my eye I saw a Toman breaking surface. Immediately I sent the catfish on its way. It landed smack on target. A few seconds later my dream was starting to materialise right in front of my eyes. I felt confident that my light gear was able to handle this one because it was only a baby approximately 3 Kg. I had the fish in the security of the hull few minutes later. I know size does matter but I was happy I landed a Toman. After ensuring that we had some photographic evidence of the event, the Toman was released to fight for another day.

When we caught up with the other boat on the way back there were numerous stories of giant Tomans that got away. Unfortunately both Gary and Kee were not successful in landing their first Toman. I thought Gary summarised the stories and feelings very well. "Suddenly my line was tight. My drag started screaming. All I could do was to hang on. I could feel the handle of my Ugly Stik bending. Suddenly it all went loose… I didn't even see the fish!"

Back at the boathouse while we were unloading the caretaker told us that number of elephants came through the day before. He was concerned that one of our cars could be damaged. Ah Ap was off the boat in a flash and was last seen struggling up the path leading to the car park. When he came back a moment later the damage was confirmed, although only minor, a couple of dints and a broken windshield. Come to think about it, we did say the word 'elephant' fairly loudly when we arrived. I wondered! Actually we should be thankful the cars were not pushed over the edge. They could have ended in the bottom of the lake.

After saying good bye to our guides we started our long journey home. On our way everyone were feeling hungry and desperate for something different to eat. So we stopped in Gerik for a late lunch. Guess what we ordered? More noodles! But at least this time it was cooked with vegetables and meat. It was almost 5 pm by the time we arrived home. When the story of the elephants was relayed, my sister-in-law suggested that we should buy 'numbers', a form of informal lottery. She said the number should consist of digits representing car and the registration of the damaged car. After what we had gone through anything was possible. So we went for it. Sure enough a week later the number came up and we won first prize which was worth a bit over one thousand dollars Malaysian.

Epilogue

For the next few days it was fish for lunch and fish for dinner. I supposed that's something every fisherman has to endure. We had steamed fish, fried fish, sweet & sour fish, BBQ fish, chilli fish, curry fish…. imagination and the sky were the limit. Overall it was a really fun and memorable trip even though we were unable to land more fish than we hooked. I feel we, especially the visitors, will do a lot better next time. Fishing is an on-going learning experience. The more we do it the better we become.

Everyone agreed the jungle-fishing trip was definitely the highlight of our holiday. Thanks to my nephews Ah Ap and Ah Boy for their planning, organisation, preparation and local knowledge which made the trip so enjoyable and successful. Not so sure about the menu for the trip though. But then no one is perfect!

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